Questions and Answers for EVERMARK Stair Parts 48 in. x 11-1/2 in. x 1 in. Unfinished Red Oak Plain Cut No Return Engineered Stair Tread

A:  Hi Cowboy, thanks for this question. While one can certainly put these treads down on existing treads, doing so will change the riser heights of your stair to the point the stair may no longer adhere to building codes. The first riser height at the bottom of the staircase would be 1 in. higher, and the last riser height would be 1 in. shorter. In most jurisdictions, that variance exceeds standard building codes. <p><p>We recommend removing the existing treads, and replacing them with these treads. There is a lot more work involved, but it will be safer in the long run. If you have additional questions, we'll reply as quickly as we can. Thank you!

A:  Hi Charlie, please contact our Customer Care Team at 678-455-5188 (M-F, 8am-4pm ET) so we can answer your questions directly. Thank you!

A:  It arrives unfinished. Both sides can be used.

A:  Hi Tryer, thank you for asking this question. The faces of these treads are good both sides, so both sides can be used as a face. If you have additional questions, we'll reply as quickly as we can. Thank you.

A:  Hi Perdeum, thanks for this question. Since you're asking about a structural component of an existing staircase, and the possibility of removing something that is structural, we recommend consulting with a qualified contractor to make that assessment. That is typically done with an onsite, visual inspection. If you have additional questions, we'll reply as quickly as we can. Thank you.

A:  Hi Perdeum, thanks for this question. Since you're asking about a structural component of an existing staircase, and the possibility of removing something that is structural, we recommend consulting with a qualified contractor to make that assessment. That is typically done with an onsite, visual inspection. If you have additional questions, we'll reply as quickly as we can. Thank you.

A:  Hi Rick, thanks for the question. Your answer has two parts. First, our treads are intended for interior use only. If your concrete step is inside where humidity is controlled with an HVAC system, our wood treads should be treated the same as if one were putting down a wood floor on top of concrete. Concrete should have cured before installing any wood flooring or treads. Also, it is recommended a vapor barrier be put down between the concrete and wood flooring/treads. Finally, we recommend doing research before attempting to put down wood treads on your concrete steps. Extra precautions may have to be taken to be sure the concrete is cured and dry.<p><p>Secondly, if you put these treads on top of a concrete step, or any existing step for that matter, it makes the first step up an inch higher than normal, and the last step an inch shorter than normal. That one-inch variance may exceed your local building code for compliance. Check with your local jurisdiction for the code requirements in your area. If you have additional questions, we'll reply as quickly as we can. Thank you.

A:  NO! It is not pressure treated wood and you cannot install untreated wood over concrete - it will suck moisture out of the concrete and rot. Using this tread for that purpose does NOT comply with building codes. And I should know = 14 years in codes, 7 as a Building Official running a Codes Dept.

A:  Hi MrFredZ, thank you for the question. You can special order these treads in longer lengths by visiting the Customer Service desk inside your local Home Depot store. They will give you the information on how to proceed with that order. If you have additional questions, we'll reply as quickly as we can. Thank you!

A:  Hi Ian, thank you for the question. First, these red oak treads have an engineered, inner core that is quite strong. Getting an electric nailer to pound through that is tough. Even an air nailer would need to have high setting to get through the tread. Using the finishing nails is fine. We recommend pre-drilling the holes before installing. Also, put a bead of construction adhesive on the stringer before you lay down the tread. That will give you even more strength, and lessen the chances of your treads ever squeaking. If you have additional questions, we'll reply as quickly as we can. Thank you.

A:  Pre drill hardwoods with a bit smaller than the nail. If you don't want squeeks later on use screws. You will need to predrill space to allow the screw head to set flush or below the surface of the tread.

A:  Hi cj, treads in longer lengths can be obtained through the special order program. Please visit the Customer Service desk inside your local Home Depot store for more information. Thank you.

A:  Hi RickH, your question is complex, and the answer depends in which part of the country you're living. Typically, letting the wood acclimate 5-7 days before finishing is standard. In your case, it might be best to go longer than that. Since you're applying the finish outside, your material is absorbing moisture from the exterior climate. If you're in the Pacific Southwest for example, that may not be a problem with the dry climate. If you're in the Gulf coast, or Southeast region, the moisture may be significant. Finishing your material outdoors, then staging it again to re-acclimate to the interior before cutting, is probably the way to go. If you have additional questions, we'll reply as quickly as we can. Thank you.

A:  Steve, thanks for the input. Is there an optimal gap between the treads and skirts and also between the risers and skirts? I'm planning to fill any gaps with caulk. Is that reasonable?