Questions and Answers for Saniflo SaniAccess3 2-Piece 1.28 GPF Single Flush Elongated Toilet in White

A:  Not always. I’ve found that holding the handle down and letting the toilet flush for at least 4 to 5 seconds will usually clean the bowl. However, because of the way the reservoir at the bottom of the bowl is designed, there is some residue left about 5 percent of the time.

A:  Absolutely. That is assuming it is installed correctly. Keep in mind that although this is sold as a kit because the products are used together, they do not work in unison. The pump does not suck the waste out of the bowl. This is a fairly conventional toilet. It discharges the waste out the rear. Then gravity brings it to the macerator, aka the sewage ejector. When that receptor is filled the pump cycles.

A:  Yes. I installed ours about 3 years ago and have not had a single problem. I had the same question just after installation and called the company because of the low level of water in the bowl. I was told that was normal because it is a rear flush.

A:  No, you must clean this toilet like you would any other toilet

A:  Water only partially fills the “well”. It’s sufficient to prevent backflow just like a regular toilet.

A:  This toilet works just like a normal toilet.

A:  I am truly sorry but I do not understand your question. Please feel free to give us a call at 800 571 8191

A:  Sorry I have no way of judging your mechanical acumen to say if you are capable of this or not. I can tell you that I have seen projects done by Home Depot customers that would rival anything done by the finest plumbing contractor seen on the TV show This Old House. And I have also seen jobs done by supposedly licenced plumbers that are down right scary. So my experience goes both ways on this. However i can say this with certainty. Running drain lines is the most important yet least understood and appreciated thing that plumbers do. Sewer gas contains potentially lethal odorless gasses contained within it. Running drain and vent lines correctly is critical to safe an reliable operation. This is why each state has very specific plumbing codes and a process of inspection for all work by a code enforcement official. Even if you take this project on, you should consult a qualified licensed plumbing contractor in your area to aid in the layout and methodology and have it inspected by the code enforcement official that has jurisdiction you your area.

A:  Yes you can Just follow the Instructions that come with it.

A:  Air flow to the sink and shower is sufficient not so much to the toilet. I have had problems with the toilet since instillation and finally gave up and stopped using it. I was told it was venting was the problem but after several attempts to fix the problem, no success.

A:  Each fixture should be separately vented.

A:  Every fixture in a system needs to be vented. Venting one fixture does not vent another. Sewer gas contains odorless and potentially lethal gasses. The roughing of drain and vent lines is one of the most over looked parts of a system and yet the most important. Plumbing code, which varies by state and in my experience by inspector, has different rules depending on your distance from the stack. For example you often see a conventional toilet discharging almost directly into the stack, this is a best practice. In these cases you don;t see a distinct vent line above the toilet tying back into the stack, That is because the stack below the toilet is acting as the drain line and the stack piping above the toilet is acting as the vent. By the way the stack is the main vertical pipe going from the basement up through the roof. So to review each fixture, and the pump itself would be a fixture needs to be vented. What that will look like in your home will be dependent on the rules in your area. To determine what that should look like you would need to speak to a qualified licensed plumber or the code enforcement official in your area as it varies. A P-trap does not make up for a vent. It stops sewer gas from coming up, but if not properly vented the water running down the drain will pull the water out of the vent making it worthless.

A:  I have two sinks connected to the unit and the vent coming off the macerator seems sufficient (not drawing water away/out of the traps when unit turns on) both sinks drain normally, toilet functions correctly. The unit has two inlets and the main vent is connected to the unit, so in reality the vent is venting both inlets. However different installations may require an auxiliary vent!

A:  Every fixture in a system needs to be vented. Sewer gas contains odorless and potentially lethal gasses. The roughing of drain and vent lines is one of the most over looked parts of a system and yet the most important. Plumbing code, which varies by state and in my experience by inspector, has different rules depending on your distance from the stack. For example you often see a conventional toilet discharging almost directly into the stack, this is a best practice. In these cases you don;t see a distinct vent line above the toilet tying back into the stack, That is because the stack below the toilet is acting as the drain line and the stack piping above the toilet is acting as the vent. By the way the stack is the main vertical pipe going from the basement up through the roof. So to review each fixture, and the pump itself would be a fixture needs to be vented. What that will look like in your home will be dependent on the rules in your area. To determine what that should look like you would need to speak to a qualified licensed plumber or the code enforcement official in your area as it varies. A P-trap does not make up for a vent. It stops sewer gas from coming up, but if not properly vented the water running down the drain will pull the water out of the vent making it worthless.

A:  I only have one outside vent for my whole system which includes a sink shower and the upflush toilet

A:  For sinks and showers you would still need the vent that goes in the wall for vacuum release. However the only thing that needs vented outside the home is the pump tank.

A:  That would depend on what you mean by the term outlet. To me that would indicate the waste discharge pipe along with the vent pipe. Those are on the top. To some people the term outlet refers to the ports where you connect additional drain lines. There is one of them on other side. If you open the installation instructions, as PDF of which is on the Home Depot listing page, under the header Info and Guides you will find an illustration which shows all the ports.

A:  If you are facing the toilet, the plug is on the right.

A:  The outlet and vent is on the top. You have two alternate inlet ports, one on the right and the other to the left. The vent is important dont skip on installing it.

A:  The outlet is on the top works great has been installed 3 years ago never had any problem

A:  After reading your question, I'm wondering how much research you did on the saniflo toilet and your DIY level. It will work in the attic however perhaps you could be better served asking for the assistance of a plumber.

A:  It depends on how many bends there are and the length of pipe running prior to entering the sewer line.

A:  No it would be potentially very problematic to do that. Think of it this way. Systems are either pressurized or gravity, not both simultaneous. So you could pump up to a point where the pressurize system enters a gravity system; at this point pipe sizes change. But you do not go up and down up and down. This will result in the system becoming air bound and clogs. The artistry in plumbing is not running water lines or soldering. It is running drainage. Drain lines that have been laid out and installed in a thoughtful manner work great. When the rules for running drain and vent lines are not followed, it can be a nightmare.

A:  I don’t see why not as long as the drain pipe is connected to your existing sewer system in house properly.

A:  Yes. Just make sure you follow the directions for the minimum vertical upflow distance.

A:  This whole system is a disaster. About one week after instillation the toilet stopped working. I could hear the macerator come on when the shower and sink were being used but when the toilet was used the pump would engage for seconds then shut off. The trouble with this system has been continuous since I purchased the system in 2018. Buyer beware.

A:  I bought this unit a while back and its currently buried behind the wall. I do remember that the flex pipe for the waste was between 3/4" to 1" and was shocked. Either way I simply used a flexible pvc coupling to go from pipe to the other.

A:  I have mine hooked up to a full size shower and soaker tub and a utility sink plus the toilet it handles it no problem

A:  Under the header "Info and Guides" on the product listing page you will find a PDF labeled "Instructions/Assembly" it contains a detailed line drawing illustrating all connections and there sizes.

A:  1 1/2” pvc drain pipe.

A:  Read the PDF files online. They have all this info.

A:  The toilet tank measures 17 3/4" wide 8" Deep x 14 1/4" high. However if by tank you mean the macerating pump, Those dimensions can be found on the installation guide. A PDF of which is on the Home Depot Product listing page under the header "Info and Guides" As to question three 7 1/4"

A:  My installer ran the pipes in my laundry room outside the wall. Not really a problem since this is a laundry room.

A:  I don't see a problem with that as long as you do support the pipes.

A:  Not to be overly defensive, but obviously I can't see the job and I don;t know what the code is in your state, so please take my answer with a grain of salt. You may want to ask a licensed plumber or the code enforcement official in your area. But in my experience that seems perfectly fine to me that you would run you discharge line as well as the vent line in that space between the foundation and the new two by four wall you are building. Let me also add ,you mention support for the pipes. Plumbing drain lines is the most under appreciated and understood thing that plumbers do. Running drain lines and the corresponding vent lines is an art. Plumbed and pitched correctly they will work flawlessly for decades. Done incorrectly they will be a source of constant annoyance. Some of the best practices are counter intuitive, so it is always a good idea to have your work looked at by a knowledgeable professional before closing up the walls. Second pipe hangers are often the most import part of the system. Vibrating and sagging lines can be problematic. So i would not say "probably" but definitely support the pipes in multiple locations. I have always been amazed at how many hangers I use when doing a plumbing job.

A:  Hello, this will work. You can simply use the plastic pipe hangers found in the plumbing section. Don’t forget the correct pipe slope for the length of run you are using.

A:  You can do that provided you will have access to the unit if it needs repair .