Questions and Answers for ADO Products ProVent 14 in. x 4 ft. Rafter Vent - 10 Per Carton

A:  I am not sure I understand what you are asking, they are 14" wide by 4' long. There is a total of 40' in length per 10 pack. There is a total of 56sf per 10 pack. Not sure that is what you are looking for or not.

A:  The $1.95 is the pricing when picked up in the store and the 10-pack includes the shipping and handling to your home or the store.

A:  Thanks for suggestions. I used 22 inch baffles and had space for a third if i overlapped edges.

A:  I’m unaware of any reason not to have as much of the roof vented as possible. They went up so fast in my install it wouldn’t have made too much difference in time.

A:  I would return them if you already have them and just get the 22" wide baffles. Here is the information from the Home Depot website. ADO Products Provent 22 in. x 4 ft. Rafter Vent Model# UPV22480 $2.57 each Internet #100561170 Model # UPV22480 Store SKU #739541

A:  You have a very unusual size - adding a third section of the vent will not fit unless you cut and tape. If you choose to do this, please use an acrylic adhesive tape.

A:  I suggest using two vents side- by- side in each rafter space.

A:  Not really, we tried that but the insulation was not adequate to hold in place....they need to be lightly stapled to beams, 2 staples per side will work.

A:  This product attaches to the roof sheathing - if you need other options please call 866-240-4933 - ask for or select retail.

A:  I ran 3/8" staples from a staple gun up the outside edges. As far as the nails from the roof. I placed the piece in place and pressed it up so the nails just pop through it here and there. That actually helped to keep it in place for staples. I was lucky and my ceiling was all gutted so this was all done from a ladder. New construction same, but if you have finished ceiling and have to do this crawling in the attic insulation, it is going to be difficult and itchy.

A:  I pushed the exposed nails through the rafter vent and used a staple gun to attach to the roof.

A:  Just install against the roof deck - these will slide along nails - push into position then staple in place.

A:  I used an air compressor with a pneumatic stapler (NOT a Staple GUN) that used generic 1/4" staples. Took no time at all.

A:  Start at the lower end of your rafters with the air space placed ]______[ so it's below the nails so the air can move freely from your eves up to your roof vents. Insulation below

A:  You will need one vent per rafter bay. However, the item you are asking about is intended for rafters on 16" centers. If your rafters are on 20" centers you will need a wider vent.

A:  Easiest way to estimate how many you need is to measure the length of one joist bay from soffit to roof peak, Divide by 4 foot, and multiply by how many joist bays you have. Way easier than calculating it from square footage measurements.

A:  You need one vent per space between rafters. Note that these arE designed for rafters on 16" centers, not 20". Home depot may have them for 20" rafters.

A:  The Provent 22" or Durovent are both designed to be used with 24" on center application. The actual space between the rafters is 22". We recommend installing vents (baffles) in between each set of raters where there is venting down at the soffit. The vents are designed to channel air from the vented soffit, up past the insulation, to the exhaust (ridge vent, pot vents, etc).

A:  If you don't have ceiling joist and it's a interior ceiling then you will not need rafter vents on that part of your roof area. But build up the rafter to give you the full depth you need and only spray the foam if you know it is R-30 or greater. You don't need the headache.

A:  Here is what I did to achieve an R-30 value with 2x6's. Use batts of R-21 unfaced insulation, then apply R-10 2" rigid foam board insulation over that. Attach drywall with 3" screws. (Note: Mark all your rafter centers for attaching drywall later. You will never locate them through the foam board.) You end up with R-31 when done!!

A:  Usually spray foam insulation (closed-cell) is applied correctly to the underside of the roof sheathing without venting, because it constitutes a vapor barrier as well as insulation.