A: It worked well , The valve was easy to replace,
A: Works fine. The valve body is the same. The repair kit parts are the same, just lead-free (LF).
A: I don't know the answer, but I had great luck emailing customer service at Watts for a question I had. Google it.
A: Must be the wrong kit for your valve. My valve only has one spring it.
A: The Second spring is inside the main chamber Just for tension And to keep it in place. It has nothing to do with the temperature thermostat. If you feel that it is mashed just pull it apart a little. Not a big deal.
A: Must not be the correct kit for your valve. My valve only has one spring.
A: There should only be one spring for the model watts tempering valve this fits. These have a high failure rate I highly recommend replacing with an equivalent Honeywell Sparco or Califfi tempering valve. I replaced mine 3 times in 5 years before finding this out
A: Yes, but they are worthless. They are the "remove old part and insert new one" type. Plus, they show the old thermostat, not the new one that is seen in the photo above starting about March 25, 2021. The trick is shutting off the water and draining it from upstairs. Two suggestions: shut off your boiler about three hours before you make the change, and cut the cold water back on first if you don't.
A: Yes they are Joe and it's very simple to do. After the third one of these failed in 3 years I installed a Honeywell-Sparco tempering valve and am so glad I did it works much more accurately. These watts units are notorious for failing frequently.
A: Yes, there are instructions included in the box.
A: Installation is simple. Turn off water and drain. Unscrew existing valve with channel lock pliers. Remove old parts that look like replacements replace o ring, put spring on first then insert new valve onto spring and screw unit back together
A: yes easy install
A: Yes, easy to follow instructions are included.
A: I was able to repair mine using silicon. Suggest RTV 4500 Food Contact Safe High Strength Silicone Sealant. Apply silicone with it dry/water off. Let the silicon start to dry and gradually tighten. The silicone allows adjustment long term.
A: I have one that I installed around 1995. If the only problem is leakage from the stem under the adjustment knob you might first try tightening up the packing gland. First CAREFULLY remove the knob, it is plastic. Mark its position first so you get it back on in the correct position. Under it is the stem and a nut which you will turn clockwise. Should not need much to tighten and stop the leak. Then replace the knob. Worked for me. This will make the adjustment a bit harder to turn in future.
A: Probably not. If the stem is leaking you will need to order the entire valve, then remove the new bonnet assembly from the new valve and replace the leaking bonnet assembly. Unfortunately I don't think you can order just the bonnet assembly.
A: Yes, if this is the exact part being replaced.
A: No it will not repair a leaking stem. The stem seal is an industry standard o-ring #106. Available at most real hardware stores. Remove the knob and C-clip, then back the shaft out of the bonnet. Replace the O-ring in the bonnet, and reassemble in the reverse order.
A: My bad... If you want to fix the valve stem, the easiest fit will be to spend a few dollars more, and buy a whols replacement valve (the insides are the same for both, so get the cheapest one. That has the valve stem as well as what this kit has. Simple replacement of the insides.
A: Yes, of course. This kit replaces the valve stem as well as the thermostat, spring, and o-ring seal. It will fix any leaks at the top of the mixer valve. It is a simple repair as long as there is no lime crud inside the valve. Then you will have to clean that all out when the valve is apart. The only problem I had was lime deposits that fell into the bottom of the valve when I took it apart, so the spring could not fit in. If you can clean out the lime deposits, replacing this kit is MUCH easier than unsoldering the pipes.
A: Yes this is for a boiler most likely with a tankless water heater set up. This controls the temperature of the water coming out of the boiler for domestic hot water.
A: No, it is for the 70A valve series. The 1170 is different. Go to Watts.com, select Water Safety & Flow Control, select Mixing Valves, select LF1170 / LFL1170, scroll down and select the Models & Repair Kits tab. Find your valve model number and size in the rightmost column, ordering information is in the leftmost and center columns. Example: you are in the United States and your valve is 3/4 inches. Valve number is then 3/4 LF1170M2-US. Hope this helps you find what you need.
A: This repair kit is for the LF70A-RK
A: 0125129 is the new part number. It is the same as part 0960222. 0869100 is the old one.
A: It will fit in the older Taco units.
A: This repair kit is the correct repair kit for the valve you have installed. The kit will not lower the temperature range. Give us a call at 1-888-321-0500 if you have any additional questions or need any help in confirming you have the repair steps.
A: It wasn't the valve it was the o-ring. It must of been defect it it. Thanks
A: Hi RS, I believe it would be best to reach out to the manufacturer Watts for assistance, as we do not offer a coordinating bonnet assembly. I have linked their website below with their contact information page so that you may receive the best details from their specialists. Hope this helps! Thanks for shopping Home Depot! http://www.watts.com/pages/contactUs.asp
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