Questions and Answers for Scotts 4 ft. x 100 ft. Landscape Fabric

A:  Yes, you can cut and even sew it at the correct length.

A:  yes; remove the plastic cover and mark the width that you want. I then use a hand saw and cut through the entire roll on my previous marked lines.

A:  Yes it is very easy to cut with a sharp pair of scissors, you could probably use box cutters to cut still on the roll saving you having unroll and cut.

A:  My experience with this product allowed me to cut it easily with a sharp quality utility cutter. In my case I only needed to cut across the entire width to make adjustments to length of my pieces. You could most likely cut your roll into the desired width strips as you go OR possibly cut the desired width on the roll before you separate it from the 100 foot roll.

A:  Yes, it can be cut with a pair of decent scissors

A:  Yes, I have added just sand in the past. This last time was wood mulch.

A:  Yes

A:  yes, you can put sand on top of it.

A:  Putting sand on/over the Scotts Landscape Fabric should be okay. Without knowing your soil type, there may be some drainage issues that might come your way. Keep an eye on it just in case.

A:  Can't imagine why not as the fabric, while porous to water, should hold sand pretty well. I've used it under pea gravel, sand, rock, and planting soil with no issues. Any very fine particulates will soak through but typical beach or playground sand should be fine on top.

A:  With good coverage and overlap we have found this fabric to work very well. Edges are the biggest concern.

A:  Yes, I am very happy with this fabric. Make sure you pin it to the ground.

A:  it definitely reduces the number of weeds. I get weeks now, but its been a few years. Use the lawn staples of hold the barrier down if your bed slopes and cover with a thick layer of mulch or whatever you are using.

A:  For a while. Some of those suckers are persistent little things and they force their way through. I'd say it reduces the unwanted growth by about 85%. Eventually Mother Nature always wins. Always.

A:  Yes...to an extent, with any of these products there will be a few that will grow. A little round-up or pull them out and you will be good.

A:  I've used this kind of product for over 30 years. Perhaps if you lay concrete over it with no seams in the concrete you'll never see a weed! But if you lay rock on it, over time, blown in dust will accumulate between the rocks creating soil that small weeds can take root in. Even when you use tightly spaced pavers or brick over it, eventually smaller weeds will find a way to get into the seams. This kind of barrier material does make it hard for roots of any kind to penetrate it from below, and while very effective in the short term, was only invented in the last century or two and is facing an enemy that has evolved over billions of years. If you use it with rock then expect to have to maintain it by screening your rock every 5 to 10 years to remove the blown-in soil in which roots can take root. I built a box with a 1/4" screen bottom that fits over a wheelbarrow that I shovel the rock into that lets the loose soil fall through and then return the rock. For brickwork or pavers you may have to dig out small weeds after a few years using a putty knife. In that sense, a cleanup every 5 to 10 years, is not too high a price to pay. The product is good and a bit easier to work with than the grey cloth that is more like stiff paper. Both work but there is no perfect solution against weed infiltration - they've trained a long time! And keep in mind that weeds generally attack from above so if you use this as a barrier between two soils, you're enemy is parachuting in, not tunneling!

A:  Yes, but not permanently. It does a good job for quite a long time, but new weeds grow because of years of dirt and dust that is moved around with winds and storms that land on top of your much.. Then the new "dirt" can establish new weed growth. I have several beds with this fabric and they are weed free except for a few tiny areas. I police them regularly with Round Up to avoid heavy weed growth.

A:  I think your experience will depend upon the size of your river rock mulch. If those rocks are large (say, 1.5 inches each, or larger) there will be space to encourage weed growth. Smaller rocks, say 3/4" or so, will offer a more dense cover and inhibit weed seeds from taking hold between the individual rocks. As far as overlap? I'd suggest 12" to 18". Anything less will possbly encourage weeds, who can be exceptionally vigorous, to try and weasel their way through rock openings to the light.

A:  Hello Devohomey In short...YES, 'eventually' after a period of time when dirt/silt or other material gets trapped between the fabric and the the rocks to become the new growing place for 'weeds'. Unless you have another method to continue to control weeds, they will be back under the conditions described. Good luck. PapaBear1

A:  I generally overlap by 6" or so and staple it in the middle of the overlap. And I think you already know the answer on river rock - blown-in dust carried on the wind will eventually create a fertile soil for weeds. So every 5 to 10 years I've had to make a pass through screening my rock to remove the built-up soil. I fabricated a wooden box with a 1/4" square mesh metal screen on the bottom to fit over my garden wheelbarrow to shovel the rocks into and let the accumulated soil fall through. It's tedious but you don't have to do it every year, only something like 5 to 10 or more years depending on how windy your area is. The finer the rock the less likely the blown-in soil will create a fertile opportunity for weeds - but eventually it will. But the finer rock is harder to screen since it will fall through the mesh of the screen. As you can see in the photo I have a mix of pea gravel for walkways (reinforced by a fine gray sand so you can run a wheelbarrow over it) along with mulch and rocks for ground cover. I also have some walkways with 16" square pavers and 1 to 2" river rock as accent filler. I think I prefer the 1 to 2" river rock as it is the easiest to cycle through the screening process.

A:  This product didn't last 1 season with screened river pebbles on it. It is too thin to take much weight...I overlapped mine 12 inches and used heavy duty staples at 2 foot spacing. I found that Preen Branded fabric is heavier and has lasted several years under the same conditions as above and it's made in the U.S.A.

A:  If you were to use this product, I would triple the thickness. This weed barrier lets all the weeds grow right through it. Personally, I would seek out another brand. You may want to shop Lowe's online.

A:  when will I be able to get a McRib sandwich year round ? Just my sarcastic way of saying both your question & mine are not in the appropriate place.

A:  Hi DDD, it looks like this 4ft. x 100ft Landscape Fabric is a store exclusive item and only able to be bought in a Home Depot store. Unfortunately we do not sell it with online stock for purchase. If you are unable to see the store inventory or price it is most likely either not a stocked item in your area or no longer available for purchase from Homedepot.com. I would advise you visit or contact your local Home Depot store for pricing and availability. Please follow the steps below to localize your Homedepot.com: 1. Localize Homedepot.com using your zip code (My Store Location: Change) 2. Choose the store where you want to pick up the item (Make this my Store) We appreciate your business and look forward to serving you in the future. Thank you for shopping Home Depot!

A:  If there is any chance of weeds growing near your French drains, I would advise you not to purchase this product. Instead of this product doing as it claims "to preventing weed growth" it actually allows weeds to grow right through it. Don't waste your money on this stuff. I found out the hard way.

A:  Hello Nick, The 'FABRIC" is designed to provide a barrier to vegetation growth which should not allow the roots to block the flow of the water through the French Drain. If your French Drain is designed and constructed properly this 'FABRIC' will go a long way to allowing the drainage to work for you. Have you confirmed your that your design, materials and construction are sound? If so, the 'FABRIC' should do its job. PapaBear1

A:  I think it is. I've used both this and the grey paper type. The grey paper is less permeable and water will travel on top of it whereas this black stuff is more like a loose weave cloth that lets water soak through.

A:  This is a simple question to answer. DO NOT USE THIS PRODUCT by Scott's. It is garbage. After I used weed killer and laid down this weed barrier, I read reviews where people said the weeds were popping right through this. They were 100% right. I have weeds growing right through this cloth. It is a daily battle now with pulling weeds and spraying weed killer just to keep my planters looking nice. Look for another brand out there. You will be happy you took my advice.

A:  You can remove the weed before placing it, but as soon as you will staple it to the ground so no sun coming through it will dyi.

A:  Asere, Are you wanting to put down the Fabric on an existing area with plants in place or will you be putting it down on a 'bare area' intending it to remain a bare area? If on an existing area with plants/flowers in place, you will want to take care not to use a weer killer that will affect those existing plants nor in areas you may want to add plants/flowers to that area in the near future. Many 'weed killers' will kill all / most plants for quite a while causing the area to be bare for several months, or longer. Do your research first before you use anything that does not fit your intentions. PapaBear1

A:  I have used this fabric as an underlayment, meaning I cover it with a few inches of soil and mulch (in my area we use bark chips for mulch.) The fabric discourages the weed seeds from emerging and sprouting. In most of the area covered, we are successful. Occasionally we have missed killing or pulling a mature and vigorous plant (here that includes blackberries [invasive] and/or English Ivy [also invasive.] The older plants can be powerful enough to push through the fabric and the dirt. So -- yes and no. It depends on the terrain and what's growing there now. If you do use a weed killer you're probably making the earth toxic and it will be 6 months before anything can start to grow, so I'd suggest you're better off pulling, mowing, or cutting off whatever grows, then laying the fabric on bare ground and anchoring it with a layer of dirt in which to plant.

A:  We did remove most of the vegetation before laying the landscape fabric down because we were leveling the area. However I don't think it would be necessary to pull all the weeds before using it. The lack of sunlight will eventually kill any vegetation you cover with the fabric and mulch. I would recommend pulling any weeds/vegetation that will be along the outside edge of the area being covered as weeds may grow towards any sunlight that may penetrate along the edge.

A:  woven

A:  Great question. This is non-woven material, almost cloth-like with holes in it. I used grass killer on the dirt and put wood mulch on top of it after I laid it down. Grass is growing out of every hole. With woven, grass will grow in the dirt around the wood mulch but not through the woven material. Pay more and buy woven material.

A:  It is a very thick plastic providing complete coverage.

A:  woven.

A:  non-woven. it has has tiny squarish holes punched in a synthetic fabric that feels a lot like polyester batting.