Questions and Answers for Reliance Controls 30 Amp Power Inlet Box

A:  Hello Steve, The PB30 needs to be surface mounted, The top of he product needs to free to open to do the wiring of if any service work needs to be done internally.

A:  Hello Stephen, Yes, Provided you are using the L14-30 Outlet on the Generator. If your generator has a 14-50 Outlet (50-amp) then you would need to use the 50 amp power inlet box, like the PB50 or the PBN50 inlet box.

A:  Hello, No aluminum wire can not be used, I am not 100% sure that most codes do not allow a mix of Aluminum Wire and Copper Wire. Our inlets to not allow aluminum wiring

A:  No not to code

A:  You need a transfer switch/box

A:  The National Electrical Code requires a transfer switch when you connect an alternate power source (generator) to a structure that is normally powered from a utility. This is a very important safety measure, not just for you and your home but also for the utility workers that may be working on the power lines.

A:  We used a disconnect box between the plug and main breaker box and it works just fine. You just have to make sure you turn the main breaker off before switching to generator power because it can back feed into the main power.

A:  You really do need to use a transfer switch to run a generator to your home. You want to isolate the two sources of power in order not to cause problems with both on line at the same time. You should consult an electrician on the topic though, much safer and potentially less expensive in the long run!

A:  You must block (switch off the main breakers) before engaging the generator live line. The only way to play safe is to install a breaker lock device. Do your homework and watch some videos on youtube. This is to prevent back feed to the outside line that could injure someone.

A:  The whole box

A:  It’s the entire box!

A:  Not sure exactly what you are asking but if you are wanting just to have the male post part  then no. This is a unit that includes male receptacle as part or the metal box. 

A:  It’s the entire box.  They do not sell a plug cover.

A:  It's a single unit. What you see is what you get.

A:  Hello Tony, The PB30 is sold as a complete product and UL has tested it as such and can not be sold separately. If only a flip cover is needed I recommend the PK30 Power Inlet.

A:  No you can not drill the top. The top and front are one piece which is the only way to make your connections. 

A:  No, the top cover is designed to mount over the bottom base cover, if you install the conduit in the top you cannot properly install or remove the cover, also if installed outside you will need to use a sealing ring to maintain Nema 3R rating. I would install conduit along side and use an LL or LR fitting to properly route conduit into the side of the box.

A:  The answer is no, the front and top are together and come off to access the box, I suggest using an LB 90 into the side of the box.

A:  You may be able to if you use a weather tight gasket fitting. It must be totally rain-tight. I would suggest that you try use the KO's in the bottom (or side if present). There may not be enough wire bending space entering the top. Look at the installation instructions. That will tell you. If you can or not. 

A:  No. The top is hinged and enables access for connections. 

A:  Yes, There’s a knockout in the back…

A:  I had an electrician install it but he did not use a conduit he put that Box directly up against the wall and ran the wires through it from the other side of the wall

A:  Yes, knockouts are located on the sides, bottom, and back

A:  Yes, there is a hole in the back and I was able to surface mount to my exterior cinderblock wall with no conduit.

A:  Yes, there is a knockout in the back of the box. It is combination 1/2", 3/4" trade size. The wire can come into the box from the back.

A:  There’s a knock out in the back of the box.

A:  The box is 6 inches high, 4 inches wide, and 2.7 inches deep.