Questions and Answers for Real-Kill Mouse Glue Traps (4-Count)

A:  It's been my experience that these things are useless! So are the poison pellets. The rat or mouse will stick then always find a way to break free leaving some hair behind. When it came to the pellets they had a tasty snack but no dead rats to be found. The modern snap traps with some peanut butter as bait is the best and least expensive solution. They stick their heads in and snap, no more rat. Just purchase some rubber gloves for disposal of the pest when the trap has done it's work.

A:  I haven't used them in a very long time, but as I recall, they eventually get dust on them over time and probably are no long effective. You can check them visually by holding up to the light and see if they've attracted dust. Even if you sweep and vacuum, the trap probably will last only weeks or months, at best.

A:  Once placed, the traps will remain sticky as long as the surface remains clean. If you don't catch any mice in two to three days, place in an alternate location where mouse activity is suspected.

A:  Quite a long time. Even with a fine layer of dust on them, the critter will stick (as long as the dust isn't too thick). I put some out on a shelf in the garage and forgot about them. Found them over 1 year later and they were still very sticky (as I found out when I accidentally stuck my thumb on it).

A:  They are not good at all. They have to be good in the first place. Well, they are good until stuff falls onto them blocking the stickum, things like bugs or leaves, or it gets stuck to something where you have to peal it off. If more then 1/3 of the sticky part is unuseable(blocked by something) I would throw it away. I would try and pull off what ever I could as carefully as I could, without getting my fingers in it. Other then that they are good for a long time, untill over time a thin layer of dust covers it taking the sticky away. You will just have to keep an eye on it. It all matters on the environment.

A:  This can be used in any temperature range.

A:  They are bad in cold weather(in the high 40's and below) they lose their stickiness

A:  Sure. There are no temperature restrictions.

A:  My experience in cold weather here in Colorado was not a good one

A:  I would imagine it depends on how cold. I've used them efffectively in temps down to the low 30s but we don't get colder than that where I am.

A:  Yes but the glue becomes less viscous the colder the weather gets. I'm in So Cal so "cold" for us is around 35 degrees and they worked fine for me at that temperature.

A:  "Real-Kill Product Expert" YOU stated there are no product restrictions. So you have read the documentation. Where do you live? Where have you used the product? Have you actually tried using one in a 40 to 45 degree garage and it won't be at all tacky? Then a couple days later when it warms up to 50 or more, it then gets tacky again and will hopefully hold onto a mouse, but at 40/45 lower I can stick my finger into it and it will not be sticky at all. It's like it freezes the top layer because then if I push 1/4 way through it, then it becomes sticky further into it where it is protected from the cold..

A:  Here in Kansas City when temp dips to the low 40's in my garage the traps are not tacky at all. If you are still wanting to use glue traps in the cold weather I would go with a different brand. TomCat is still tacky till about 35ish degree's but below that you need to go with regular traps or the older live glue box traps.

A:  Yes, but the new traps make it easier for mice to escape. Temp has been 10-15 degrees when I've caught mice on the old style. I can't say the same for the new style.

A:  Glue traps DON'T WORK! All you will get is some fur left behind. I even put out the pellets to poison them, they eat up every tray, YUM, YUM. You want to catch a rat, get a rat trap, not a mouse trap and put peanut butter in there. Put on gloves to dispose and reset the trap. One after another, if they stop, then change out the peanut butter. Hope this helps.

A:  As the name implies, this one is for a "mouse" and not a "rat"; size matters! As a measurement, a mouse's body is 3-4 inches not including the tail. The glue trap seems to catch one mouse, not that two couldn't fit, I think other mice "smell & sense" death and do not follow the same path. Placement of the glue trap is important. Close to walls or in narrow pathways. This product also has a "Rat Glue Trap". Again, they have caught one rat at a time. Yes, Glue Trap may seem more humane but I find it a toss-up between Glue Traps and the standard rodent trap! Glue Trap is much easier to set out but the critter may be still kicking when you check them Like all traps, be cautious of children and pets when placing any trap or toxic bait..

A:  Depending on the size of the rat, each trap could catch maybe 2, but I generally find that it does well with just 1 per glue trap.

A:  I wouldn't use these specific glue traps for rats. They are almost too small to use for mice. These traps are just a little larger than an average mouse.

A:  Hi Leticia. We also have larger Real-Kill Large Glue Traps available at Home Depot specifically for rats or mice (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Real-Kill-Rat-Glue-Traps-2-Pack-HG-10096-3/100208417). You shouldn't expect to catch more than one rodent per glue trap, though.

A:  These are not "pre-baited" but the glue may have some attraction in smell? I don not bait the trap because yhis will cause the rodent to approach it slowly and only be partially caught. If the trap is placed in the path of where the rodents normally travel they will jump onto the trap and bait is not necessary.

A:  Real-Kill Mouse Glue Traps are not pre-baited, but bait isn't necessary for this type of trap -- it's super sticky. Just place glue side up along walls in areas where mice have been spotted; if you haven't caught anything in two or three days, move to a new location.

A:  There is no bait. Place these in paths that they travel for good results. I have used the gel boat or a small piece of cheese placed in the middle of the traps for the harder to catch ones with great results.

A:  No they are not.

A:  I didn't see them to be pre-baited, nor do they say on the box, so I baited them with a small amount of crackers and nuts.

A:  Right, these traps are non-toxic and contain no pesticides.

A:  I don't think it would hurt cats (chemically speaking), but if they get a paw in it, it will stick and a pet owner would have to take it off. Hope that helps. I think the idea is that it traps rats with the gooey stuff; it's not a poison.

A:  It's not toxic, just sticky.

A:  The glue on these traps is very strong. I wouldn't put them in a spot where a cat could get at them. I have gotten them stuck to things and it takes some pulling to get them off. I don't think it would do great harm to a cat, but it certainly wouldn't be pleasant.

A:  Hurt cats???...No more than a human that gets their hair caught in the trap but a cat would be more entertaining when getting them off the trap!!! Must be caution to place out of reach o children and pets!!! These traps are sticky and they work!

A:  Although they're non-toxic and pesticide-free, they're extremely sticky. We wouldn't recommend placing them in a spot where pets or children can access them.

A:  How do you remove the glue if your dog gets in it

A:  You don't want your pet getting stuck to a trap or worse yet, eat a trap. This could cause an animals mount to become lodged closed or internal problems caused by eating. Not a good idea around pets.

A:  They are not "safe" for any pets or children because the glue works very well. Stuck in hair is not fun!!! If pets start chewing these traps they well choke or have their mouth stuck closed. Use "common sense"! This glue may even peel off skin.

A:  The glue is very strong. I would assume, depending on where the trap was stuck on the dog - like eyes, ears, nose, mouth...it could be painful and very unpleasant to remove and it would definitely pull their hair off and possibly some skin along with it. I would keep them away from all animals.

A:  To "detect" bed-bugs you must be aware of the "signs" that indicate there are bed-bugs. If you are bitten often enough while in bed, blood spots on bed linen, or spots that appear like rust spots. To use glue-traps to "detect" bed-bugs it may be necessary to place "blood-base bait" on the trap to attract the critters. Bed-bugs usually come out at night in the dark, what attracts them to a bed is a place to nest and not necessarily the person. Bed-bugs also feed on any living organism: bats, dogs, cats, etc. It may be by chance that they cross paths but when they do, they go for the blood! So, to "catch" bed-bugs, it would only seem logical to place the baited glue-traps in close proximity to where you believe the critters to be and check the glue-trap regularly to ensure that it is doing what it is intended to do and NOT attracted other critters to the area (though the latter would be beneficial) but you don't want to encourage another pest problem!!! I, personally, have not had a problem with bed-bugs but I do launder my bed linens regularly. I imagine that once you have an "infestation" of bed-bugs, it will be a long-term effort to rid them since they can live for nearly two years and can take a while for eggs to "hatch". So you may get rid of one generation but another generation is on its way? But, if anything short of "gassing" the area of interest, the glue-traps may be an excellent interim solution!

A:  Maybe. They certainly don't work on mice.

A:  no

A:  No, a good beagle will do that

A:  These are mouse traps.

A:  No. It does not detect them but I suppose it will catch them if they crawl over the glue.

A:  it won't detect bed bugs but any bug or bird) that lands on it will stick to the glue.

A:  Bro what ?

A:  No this will not detect bedbugs

A:  Might catch some but absolutely not detect them.