Questions and Answers for Milescraft DrillBlock Hand-Held Drill Guide

A:  The metal bushing itself is 17mm tall. It is inset into the plastic of the guide so depending on the stock you are drilling it may be up to 28mm (just over an inch).

A:  The inserted metal drill bit guide offers six common drill diameters: 1/8”, 3/16”, 1/4”, 5/16”, 3/8” and 1/2”

A:  Mine measures about 4-1/2"L x 1-5/8"W x 1-1/4" H. The steel guide bushing holes extend about 11/16" into the 1-1/4" height with space below for chip clearance. 7.85, etc. might be for the packaged item.

A:  Yes, the DrillBlock can be used for this application.

A:  This is the imperial version. Milescraft also offers model #1362 which is the metric version.

A:  Yes, go to Milescraft.com and look under drill blocks, SKU 1364

A:  If you're asking if this would help you drill into the end (face), of a dowel rod and drill the hole axially (not transversely), I doubt it. There just isn't enough surface area to steady the tool. The face of the rod would also have to be perfectly perpendicular (square), to the rod, you'd need to use the tool oriented backwards so you have the flat face against the rod face. Otherwise the "V" groove on back side of tool would not make for a good rest. You would also want to drill the smallest hole to maximize the small surface area...then you might have the grain of the wood (if you're drilling wood), steer the bit...

A:  If the dowel is laying horizontal, but not if the dowel is standing perpendicular. The drillblock is made to fit tightly against round objects due to the groove in the bottom of the drillblock.

A:  It may work however it will difficult to line up and get the hold centered. It will also be difficult to hold steady on the end of the rod. A suggestion, using a spade or forstner bit drill a 3/4" hole half way through 3/4" or 1-1/2" board, then drill the diameter hole you need through the rest of the board. Place the dowel in the hole and drill the hole you need in the dowel.

A:  No. This tool is designed more for a larger flat surface that gives the tool stability. The end of a dowel doesn't have enough flat surface. Also, there would be no way to accurately center the tool over the end of a dowel. It does however have a groove that makes it possible to accurately drill a hole through the SIDE of a dowel.

A:  This is not a good tool to drill the end of a dowel. It has a V notch for drilling on the rods diameter. You could make a simple jig by drilling a 3/4” hole in a block with a spade or forstner bit until the center just breaks through. Then put it over the end of the dowel and drill the hole.

A:  This could work, you would need to devise a way to clamp or accurately secure the rod.

A:  Probably, if you had someone else to hold it steady on the dowel end while you drilled.

A:  No, 3/4” is not enough surface area to support the tool properly.

A:  This is not designed to be used with a countersink. As you have stated, you can drill the hole without the countersink first, then go back with the countersink.

A:  I think I just figured out the answer to my own question. From where I have the countersink set on the bit to make a hole without the drill block, I need to remove the counter sink and go up the height of the drill block about an inch and a quarter and then drill the hole without the counter sink and then come back at the end and make the counter sink hole. A little more work but my whole should be straighter than without the assistance from the drill block.

A:  This tool is designed as a guide to help drill a perpendicular hole in you work surface,the block is used for specific size straight shank drill bits. For you needs you may be able to drill a smaller hole with the drill block then use that hole for your tapered drill and countersink bit.

A:  I used it with standard drill bits. The best I can remember I would not try tapered or counter sink bits. Sorry.

A:  I haven't actually tried this but I'm gonna say that I don't think it will work with a counter sink.

A:  Ive used a variety of drill bits and haven't noticed any "wollering" out of the drill guide. I think that usually drill bits in general have the primary cutting edge on the end of the bit, not so much along the sides where it would be in contact with the guide.

A:  The DrillBlock has a solid metal bushing block, the bits shouldn't cause damage.

A:  I don't see any reason that it wouldn't work with any type of drill bit. If you test the drill bit prior to using the guide and the bit doesn't turn freely by hand it will certainly remove some of the metal. It appears Milescraft is using a soft metal to prevent excessive drill bit wear so I wouldn't expect this guide to last very long for heavy or everyday use. Remember what the purpose of a guide is for and since there is metal to metal contact keeping you straight...the result will be wear. My personal opinion is that the tool works as intended, (actually better) because the soft contact points kept it from moving around when I've used it, and for me it's an excellent value that I'll purchase again.

A:  I do not use this daily but I use cobalt drill bits and still looks and functions like new

A:  Yes, you won’t be making a new hole in the guide. This tool will guide the direction of your hole to be 90° perpendicular to your work. Smooth edge of bit to smooth edge of guide.