Questions and Answers for Gronomics 48 in. x 95 in. x 19 in. Raised Garden Bed

A:  Dear Valued HomeDepot Customer, We have reached out to the manufacturer and their reply is, 7/8" thick and are 100% Western Red Cedar

A:  the wood is untreated,i then used a product called cedar garden bed oil made by gronomics,which is food contact safe

A:  Yes, the wood is untreated.

A:  Use a breathable landscape fabric. Slightly wrap the fabric up the sides of the garden bed and this should eliminate the soil from seeping out.

A:  By the time you get the road base in the bottom of the box about 6 inches deep and then put your garden mix soil on top of the road base ( which would you need for drainage purposes) that box is stable enough that it’s not going anywhere. If you feel it might still be a problem you can always drill some holes next to the garden box into the cement and put rebar stakes down in that hole fill it with epoxy and then you can use loop brackets to screw the bracket into the box wood and that will also make it so it’s not going anywhere. So far, our clients of been very happy with it

A:  I'd consider heading over to the paint department and picking up some 4mil Visquene and a stapler. Line the inside and bottom with the plastic and you should be good for awhile though I'd consult with others if that'll hold in too much water for the plants. Maybe a better mix of soil/sand in that case.

A:  Sorry that I can't help you with this one. I put several inches of rock in the bottom or mine to facilitate draining. (It is sitting on dirt.)

A:  I put my raised bed on top of an weed infested flower bed and part of my lawn. I put down heavy landscape fabric that extended up each side before I filled it with soil. No weeds could grow through and no dirt spilled out. Here is what I used. Vigoro 4 ft. x 50 ft. 1.5 oz. Polypropylene Landscape Fabric Model# 209886 Good luck.

A:  You are probably an old hand at this by now. but I'll go over some of the options. If you move your planter to a concrete slab you will need to contain it. The easiest way is with a nice thick tarp that you lay inside as if the planter was a pool.Staple (lots of staples) the tarp to the wood to about 2-inches from the top. Don't stretch it, Keep it loose so you can fill it with the maximum amount of dirt. Oops, sorry, SOIL not dirt, Before you start throwing the soil in cut some small drain holes, say 10 or so. Cover the drain holes with a mesh of some kind to keep the soil in. If you want it to drain really good (as in no mess) run small tubes from the drain holes to the edge of the planter and direct the drips to another bed. Mix your soil outside the container so you don't accidently cut more holes in it. One advantage this method has is to let you re-use your soil another year, once it has been steralized. It is very easy to take out the staples, open one end of the planter, and put the used soil in an area where you can work on it. If you didn't want to go to all that trouble, you could just set it up on the concrete and throw the dirt in. It will get messy as water leaches out the dirt and the dirt will stain the wood. And the bugs will get to it easier. But remember, this is gardening. Those plants can take a lot of sub-perfect conditions and still bloom and produce. Oh, one more thing, do something to plan for the neighborhood cats and dogs visiting the garden. (This is one good reason to wear gloves.) An easy trick is to bury strips of chicken wire about a half inch beneath the soil. Cats especially hate that.

A:  No, these boards are unfinished.

A:  Yes, I think they put stain on the boards and they are smooth. I had no problem with splinters

A:  The 48 in. x 95 in. x 13 in. Raised Garden Bed boards are sanded and smooth to the touch. The item is also unfinished.

A:  The posts are 4'' x 4'' and the boards are 1'' thick.

A:  I would tell you but my garden is under 3' of snow. I think it was about 1/2 -3/4" hope this helps.

A:  Actually, there is a center support rail (divider between the squares).

A:  There is not a divider.

A:  No, the soil is not included.

A:  No, soil for the raised garden bed will have to be purchased separately.

A:  They are not as thick as I had expected, but it is sturdy. I put it together and it is housing a great vegetable garden. It will take time before I will be able to say how well it holds up.

A:  7/8"

A:  The side boards are 1" x 6" Cedar with tongue and groove to fit together nicely. They are a full 1" thick, not like a standard lumber cut that is closer to 3/4". The connecting posts are 4 x 4 with dovetail slots cut to accept the side boards. All precision cuts so I only used a rubber mallet to tap them together.

A:  It is made of cedar so there is longevity there but would expect even longer life with sealing. I did not seal mine and it has only been up a couple of weeks.

A:  I do not see why it could not be placed on a concrete slab. I leveled the former vegetable plot and did not use a concrete slab. It may be advisable to make the first and middle layer of rock for drainage if you are putting it on a slab.

A:  There are no screws. Everything is dovetailed wood joints that simply slide into place. Mine is placed on top of mulched trees (very uneven surface). If you were to place it on concrete, be careful with drainage so the bottom boards don't rot out too fast.

A:  No hardware supplied, but should be!!! Use your own... If you secure it with nails or screws, it can be placed on concrete. otherwise, side boards will fall.

A:  No hardware needed and it could be placed on a slab but drainage would be problematic. I placed mine on 8" x 16" pavers laid end to end with bare dirt in the middle. I did add a screw above and below the center board to allow me to move it easily.

A:  I think it could be placed anywhere. You'd have to think about drainage if it were placed on a concrete slab.