A: This bit has 1/4" shank. You can scroll down on the Home Depot website to see the specifications of the bit.
A: Hi Tom, the DR04132 has a ¼” shank.
A: I did and it worked well
A: Yes, when i'm cutting blind plate edge or hidden dado. Take your time and go in small increments. I use about 1/8 max at a time.
A: Hi Springer! Yes, this bit can be used to plunge, but it is best to advance the router slightly while plunging, rather than boring directly down at 90 degrees.
A: They are a true 1/4 inch.
A: Sir your question is a little unclear to me - in terms of context in this regard. On the one hand if the label on the router bit states it’s got a 1/4” cutter diameter - then that’s the diameter you may count on: 0.25 inches (or diameter of 6.35 mm) +/- a.very small tolerance of about 0.005” ( ~ a gage-makers tolerance +/- 0.013 mm) that’s ~1” long (effective cutter length) Since this was cut from a round carbide shaft that also has to fit into the 1/4” inside diameter collet on the router the cutter-shaft will also be very close to that 0.25 inch diameter size. On the other hand - if you’re planning to use this bit to cut a groove for 1/4” plywood -,you’ll perhaps not be completely satisfied with this size because while the edge of the “1/4 plywood” will fit in this size of groove; it will be roomy fit even if you use yellow (aliphatic) glue to fix it (the 1/4” ply) in the groove. Plywood of this thicknesses may be up to 1/16” thinner than the posted 1/4” expected thickness since that’s what the “mill standard” allows. Hope this helps. Grumpy Joe.
A: Hi Doug, the DR04108 is a true ¼” diameter bit.
A: So I've noticed that my cnc cuts weren't always coming out to scale. I put my calipers on these bits, and found them to be smaller than the advertised size (on the cutting end). Where 1/4" is 6.35mm, I've had to set my CAM to 6.30mm tool diameter and that solved alot of issues. Just be sure to put calipers on each tool, because the diameters are all different, even on the same bit. One was even as small as 6.25mm. Hope that helps.
A: I would think not but it depends on how thick your plywood is and the RPM of your router.
A: They reflect max rpm of 24,000. I run them at 18,000 on my CNC router and they work great.
A: Up to 24,000 rpm.
A: Generally they're rated for a maximum RPM of 30,000 (revolutions per minute); depending on what you're trying to shape. But that's the maximum speed the cutter is rated at usually, not the best one for the wood you may be shaping. If you're cutting hardwoods such as maple or cherry, just to avoid burn marks, I'd try to stay at the lower range of speed (about 12,000 RPM), assuming you have an adjustable speed router. If you're cutting a more forgiving wood species such as walnut or most of the pine species (like Spruce-Pine-Fir, or Hemlock, or Larch), you can take the speed up to about 20,000 RPM, assuming it (the wood) is not full of pitch pockets.
A: The RPM is not listed for this bit but as I can recall the maximum for the 1" diameter bit was 24,000 rpm. I know that the solid carbide 1/4" diameter maximum rpm would be much higher but it should be listed in the Home Depot ad.
A: I am trying to get more complete specs from these listings and wish that Diablo would post router bit specs on their website like Freud does but, some say Freud and Diablo are same bits? Freud website also has a speed & feed calculator (it takes some digging around) for different materials to use or even download the chart. Type a google search for: router bit speed-rockler for a chart plus article on the subject which shows bits up to 1 in. dia. good for 22,000 to 24,000 rpm as a start and how fast we feed it into the cut matters also which is why old timers like me like variable speed routers! As a matter of safety and all I do not trust cheap bits at the lowest settings for that matter! Different materials x feed rate x router fixed rpm vs variable x carbide vs H.S. steel bit material x rigidity of setup & etc.
A: Definitely 24,000 rpm. It's on the package (I viewed it in-store) but not in the online description.
A: Masonry cutting machines will operate at significantly slower rpms and feed rates than woodworking machines and will offer tooling with the appropriate grades of carbide designed to withstand the much higher impact of those cutting forces.
A: Unfortunately, while carbide is harder than the hardest steel; its only about as hard as Granite (which is a solidified solution of Quartz, Mica, and ~30-40% colored mineral, depending on where its from). Thus NO... do not attempt to cut or shape Granite with carbide bits. To cut or shape granite; you'd actually be best with tools utilizing industrial diamonds as cutters and lots of water (to keep the diamonds cool and the (bad for your lungs) granite dust down. There are specialty cutters to do this; but they're pricey and require special equipment to utilize them, and simultaneously keep them wet. If you're determined to try to shape Granite, look where you can rent tools that are used to cut ceramic tile, also make sure you do this wet. Cutting granite dry (without water as a copious cutting fluid) is a sure recipe for silicosis (silica dust in your lungs), as well as wasting your cutting tools quickly.
A: Hi Soggy, thank you for your question. Diablo router bits are not meant to be used on granite counter tops. Unfortunately, we do not have any products that you would be able to use for this application.
A: I'd doubt it I was having a head time with pine doors.
A: I only cut wood with mine. I have not tried to cut granite.
A: 2.460 inch 62.5 mm
A: 2 7/16"
A: Hi Evan, Thank you for your question. The overall length is 2-1/8".
A: Well , with the blade being an inch and the remainder as seen in the picture. I believe mine was 2-1/4- 2-1/2" in length overall.
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